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León to O Cebreiro. (By bus.)

O Cebreiro to Alto do Poio. (On foot.)

Magical morning light in León.

After a few days of slovenly bus-catching, we resumed our walk again in Galicia. The difference was very noticeable – green fields, lots of farms, copious amounts of cows (and their excrement,) and many more pilgrims. Getting closer to Santiago, the number of pilgrims increases dramatically – including large school, church, or scout troop groups from Spain or surrounding countries.

The change in mood felt disconcerting to me, especially since today we walked during the hottest part of the day, and I am getting sick with something minor but strength (and morale) sapping.

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