Santiago to Finisterre. (By bus – our walk is done.)

Today we took the bus to the coast, to Finisterre, where many finish their Camino after passing through Santiago. Once we got there I understood why. After the crowds and the vague feeling of disillusionment upon reaching Santiago, I didn’t want my journey to end there. This – the misty coast – felt like the end of a journey.

The Romans believed that this was more than that – Finisterre, or Fisterra, was considered to be the end of the world. We felt it, walking out onto the narrow strip of land reaching out through the mist and into the Atlantic ocean beyond it. It was like standing on the edge of a cliff and looking into nothingness.

We didn’t check into an albergue. Instead we found a ledge halfway down the steep slope at the very tip of the peninsula, with an overhanging boulder to protect us from the wind and keep us from falling off the cliff, and mountain goats clambering around on nearby rocks. My boyscout boyfriend built a fire for us to burn our hats and walking sticks.

Except at that point he wasn’t my boyfriend, because he used a daisy as a ring and asked me to marry him while we watched the sun set over the Atlantic.

(Perhaps because he knows me and knows what to do when I am distressed, and in this case I needed something to be excited about in the future once I cross that ocean again, instead of just feeling melancholy about what I’m leaving behind me. Maybe it was the only way he could get me back home.)

So we got engaged, watched the fire, watched the stars (thousands of them, incredibly bright), ate cheese and fruit (sliced up with a pocketknife), drank wine right from the bottle, listened to the waves crashing on the rocks beneath us, and slept wedged between the rocks that kept our slick sleeping bags from sliding us right off the cliff. A good end and a good beginning.


4 Responses to 207/365

  1. Kaley says:

    Congratulations! I have enjoyed following your pilgrimmage (as well as your photos).

  2. Pingback: 311/365 « Me importa. Me importas. Me importan.

  3. Pingback: 311/365 « Me importa. Me importas. Me importan.

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